Finally got some miles under the hull of Guava. Anchored in northern Costa Rica after a big 4 day, solo push from Huatulco, Mexico to Bahia del Sol, El Salvador. See www.keezo.com for the story of that passage. Ill also try to keep up on the website now that Dana has it back up.
While there i met crew Courtney.....well actually stole her from another boat that she flew down to crew on that was also headed south. Lucky me. I asked and she jumped ship to Guava. We provisioned, fixed my alternator (again) and left the next day. She had never sailed but nothing like a 300 mile, 3 night offshore passage, from El Salvador, passing Honduras, Nicaragua and into Costa Rica, to cut your teeth on.
We were dealt a mixed bag of lite to 35kts wind, up to 3 kts counter-current, lightning storms and no visible land for most of the trip. Also mechanical problems with the finicky alternator, and the engine belt breaking nearly overheating the engine. Disaster narrowly averted. Fishing on the other hand was a big success landing bonito tuna, sierra and a few delicious dorado.
The 3rd morning, with a stiff breeze we sailed into Bahia Santa Elena at the northern tip of Costa Rica. The bay is part of and surrounded by Santa Rosa Natl Park. Nothing there except naturn. No houses, hotels, palapas, roads or people. Snorkeling in 88degree turquiose water, crazy birds and parrots squawking and flying about, monkeys howling in the jungle trees and all to ourselves.
Acouple of days fof this we decided to reprovision and actually check in to the country. Upon our departure, while setting the spinnaker, we were cut off by the Costa Rican Coast guard and promptly boarded. NO big deal, just checked papers and asked a few questions. Actually i think they just wanted a better look at my crew in her pink nightie........her standard deckwear. 5 hour spinnaker run put us in Playa del Coco. We are all official now and will do some diving in the numerous secluded bays that surround the area. I look forward to returning to the spot i received my divemasster training for 3 months when i made the 6 month central amer trip, that changed my life, back in '92.
Costa Rica has offered a variety of secluded anchorages and little or no other people. Other than a few boats hanging in the bays a short sail from Playa del Coco we did not encounter hardly anyone on the coast.
We spent a few weeks in those northern anchorages and islands relaxing, swimming and diving. Our first dive was a commando dinghy approach to an island off the beach of Playa del Coco. The rainy approach and difficult anchoring (or mooring ball) set the trend for many dives to come. Our next dozen were always premised with a downpour and while making for a wet start it matters little at 80ft deep.
With no support we made conservative dive plans in regards to times, depths and distances travelled from the anchor line. Natural navigation skills, basically remembering stationary features on the sea floor, were a must for locating the dinghy anchor after an hour exploring. Strong ocean currents required us to surface exactly at the dinghy. While every dive was unique they all offered a combination of similiar sights. Rocky and or coral bottoms sported varieties of creatures including but not limited to turtles, spotted-eagle rays, moray eels, enormous schools of jacks, parrot, butterfly, trumpet, angelfish, barracuda and a plethora of others I dont know escorted us on each dive.
Courtney was recently certified in Utila, Honduras yet her demeanor below the surface was that of an ole pro. In no time we had doubled and tripled her logged dives. These conditions are more difficult than your standard dive charter. Dinghy diving takes practice and often the toughest part of our excursions is loading/unloading bulky, heavy gear, at anchorage and in an unpredictable ocean swell, from the decks of Guava. The reward of private sites and the interaction with curious (not spooked from a crowd) marine life is the payoff.
When not scubadiving we have been freediving twice a day. When possible we actually prefer this freedom to the heavy gear and as our skills improve the subsurface time does too. When relaxed and applying a few efficeincy tricks you can remain submerged for a surprisingly long time. Practicing these skills may prove valuable in an emergency situation. There have been many instances when i have freed fouled anchors for other cruisers.
Before leaving northern Guanacaste, Guava was left at anchor in Playa Panama while we travelled inland for two weeks to visit my friends from Seattle, Tim and Robin. They live in the mountains between San Jose and the coast on their property Ranchomastatal. (See Ranchomastatal in the index)
The end of June put Guava anchored at Playa Conchal. Back in 1992 on my first extended travel (I back-packed thru central america for six months) i spent nearly three months based on this beach honing my diving skills. There was nothing here then (now exists an exclusive resort) and the beauty of the surroundings remain intact. Accomodations then consisted of a tent on the beach and food options were what we cooked on the camp stove. Having Hotel Guava Jelly was five star in comparison.
Returning to Montezuma, then a small hippie village, was a treat tho it too had grown. Dozens of hotels and resturants have sprouted since my last visit. The real gem of this area is the waterfall hike outside of town. That incidently has not changed. 30 minutes up river is an incredible 100ftwaterfall, the source above a 60ft waterfall which has been the sight of many Rick swan dives. On this visit while surveying the launch and landing site, the local kids, thinking i was building up the nerve, were urging me to jump off into the small pool far below. Playing up the drama as they lept, one by one, i finally stood on the edge and appeared nervous. To their surprise i launched a swan dive and remained below the surface for a little longer then normal. The cheers from them made me a member of their exclusive jump club.
The anchorage here, while fine in calm weather, is exposed in a blow. Returning that afternoon we found a fishermans net tangled in Guava's anchor chain. After unravelling for an hour we were free and decided to remain anchored while our new friends Mark and Liz on S/V Scholarship departed for the well protected Bahia Ballena, a few hours sail. That evening a Papagayo (common, strong Costa Rican wind) blew onshore and was mixed with frequent lightning and a deluge of rain. The effects kept us on anchor watch and the only issue was a snubber line (rope tied to anchor chain to relieve stress on equipment) snapped but the ground tackle held Guava in place and off the lee shore. Our evening entertainment was we were treated to a spectacular lightning show. Beats the Discovery channel!!
While cruising Costa Rica, news from Seattle required me to return there for a couple of months and began the search for a safe affordable place to leave Guava. The options for this becomes less and less south of Mexico. If there is a traditional marina it is usually unaffordable and full of large sportfishing yachts. This led us to check Costa Rica Yacht Club (CRYC) in Punteranes. We were skeptical but found it acceptable for a haul-out and workyard. With a couple of weeks before returning to the States we made the sail south to Isla del Cano, a protected biosphere preserve, 12 miles offshore, at the southern end of the country.
Breaking up the passage put us anchored near Quepos in a secluded cove. According to the cruising guides and all the computer info we had (more on this in a minute) the rolly, theft ridden, loud, crowded, unsecure anchorage of Quepos is the only option in the area. Again we ventured out on our own and found a beautiful, small bay, Playa Issimo, around the corner. We did have to make a short hike and bus ride to get to Quepos but the private anchorage, with a number of submerged rocks (maybe why it is not recommended) for snorkeling was worth the trade. We loved it and stayed longer than we planned before sailing south.
A word on info. There are so many cruising guides, cruiser compiled CDs loaded with info, stories, waypoints, etc. as well as dozens of world charts for the computer. Granted info is very helpful but you must to be careful to not let it determine all your actions. I think of it as the "Lonley Planet Syndrome". We use those books also but sometimes you need to step of the beaten path. For the most part we use all the info at hand for a safe passage and to help find interesting places but some of our greatest finds were born out of curiosity. OK...that said let me get back to writing so the next cruiser reading this will know where to go. Heh, Heh, Heh!
Upon our arrival at Isla del Cano we found no boats in the small rocky anchorage and promptly rowed to shore with gifts for the park ranger. Christian accepted some bread and beers and informed us of the fees to anchor and the diving regulations. We negotiated around the requirement to dive with the one of the expensive mainland companies that arrive daily with a dozen divers each. Our unique experience was just the two of us on a sunrise dive in clear, warm water and unguided through canyons and pinnacles, visiting the usual suspects. We have become very spoiled never having to share our dive sites and with less divers the fish are much more curious and engaging.
The first night was calm and the next day was spent exploring the small island and snorkeling from Guava, which was almost as good as the diving. This anchorage is not very inviting in calm weather and many boats only stay during the day. We were lucky the first night but the second evening delivered the usual blow, rain and lightning. Fortunately it soon passed and in the morning after a sunrise snorkel we weighed anchor and began the return north to CRYC for a haul-out.